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[【散文】] 游晋祠感受山西人风采

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发表于 2016-3-12 17:15:06 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
游晋祠感受山西人风采
Visiting Jin Temple to Feel the Style of Shanxi

这个题目似乎风马牛不相及,其实,凡是到过山西的人,无不体会到山西人的许多风采都和晋祠有关,可以说,晋祠是山西人的根。
This title seems to have no relevance, but in fact, whoever has been to Shanxi, whoever has known Shanxi style, and whoever has visited Jin Temple, would definitely say that this temple is the root of the people there.

只有接触到根,才可以了解真正的山西人。
Only by tracking the root, can you fully understand the people of Shanxi.

晋祠位于山西省太原市西南郊25公里处的悬瓮山麓,晋水源头,有一片古建园林,统名“晋祠”。
Jin Temple is located at the foot of Xuanweng (Hanging Um) Hill, twenty-five kilometres southwest of Taiyuan in Shanxi province.It is the source of the Jin River and it has a large ancient garden.The hill, temple and garden together are named Jin Temple Park.

这里,山环水绕,古木参天,在如画的美景中,历代劳动人民建筑了近百座殿宇楼阁和亭台水榭。
Visiting the park, you will see a river around the hill and ancient trees towering into the sky.In the picturesque park, you will see hundreds of temple halls and pavilions built by the working people of ancient times.

而据记载,晋祠最早建于周朝后期 (当然还有争议,有人认为始于北魏)。
According to records, the first temple hall was built in the late Zhou Dynasty.Of course there is controversy, and some people think that Jin Temple construction began in the Northern Wei Dynasty.

郵道元的《水经注》中写道:“际山枕水, 有唐叔虞祠,水侧有凉堂,结飞梁于水上。”
The famous ancient tourist Li Daoyuan wrote the world's first travel guide book The Note of Watemays and said: 44Amid the mountains and besides the river, there is a temple named Tang Shu Yu.A cool hall stands on the side of river, but a pavilion with some flying girders stands on the water.”

晋祠是干什么用的?
What is the Jin Temple used for?

不用置疑,最早是祭祀晋国之主唐叔虞的。
Needless to say, it is firstly used for worshiping Lord Tang Shuyu of the Jin State.The founder of the Jin State was Tang Shuyu, his learned name Ziyu.

晋国的始祖是唐叔虞,字子于,为周武王的幼子,周成王的弟弟,姓姬。
He was the youngest son of King Wu of the Zhou Dynasty, and he was the brother of King Cheng of the Zhou State, who was surnamed Ji.

根据西周“封邦建国”的分封制度,他被封到今山西境内。
According to the “feudal” packet system, he divided the territory of modem day Shanxi that in ancient times was called “Tang”.

当时人们把山西一部分称为“唐”, 他先是封在唐地,就以唐为氏,所以又被称为唐叔虞,国名大概也叫唐国。
He was ratified in Tang,so changed his surname to reflect this, later becoming known as Tang Shuyu.

后来他的儿子燮父迁都于晋水之旁,就改名为晋。所以,山西这一带后来都称为晋。而山西人从那个时候就被称为晋人。
Later, his son, Xiefu moved the capital to the Jin River riverside and the state and all its areas and people were renamed Jin.

可以说叔虞是晋人杰出的祖先,祭奠祖先的晋祠不仅是风水宝地,而且还是萦绕着祖先杰出思想和魂魄的地方,启迪并福佑着后人去开创赫赫伟业。
So it still could be said that Tang Shuyu was the distinguished ancestor of the Jin people. Jin Temple was a auspicious place where Jin people could worship their ancestors, exhibiting their outstanding thought and spirit, and enlightening and blessing later generations in the creation of their own valiant records.

祭奠祖先的行为不仅追缅先烈感昭日月的丰功伟绩,更是后人一个反思自身的过程,校正人生未来如何走的过程,因此,这个过程既有庄严的仪式感,又有剧烈的思想激荡。
The action of worshipping ancestors not only remembers martyrs and their heroic actions, but also has later generations think about and correct their mistakes.The process is a solemn ceremony, full of intense brainstorming.

遥想当年,一群以李渊、李世民为首的晋人,跪拜在祖先的灵位前,是怎样的壮怀激烈?
Back in ancient times, a group of people headed by Li Yuan and Li Shimin were bowing down before the ancestral shrine.

据记载,公元617年夏天,在隋朝江山的风雨飘摇之中,太原留守李渊正在加紧起兵的最后准备。
According to records, by the summer of AD 617, the position of those in control of the Sui Dynasty had become precarious, so Li Yuan, an officer of the Taiyuan military was stepping up final preparations for rebellion.

与此同时,隋炀帝安插在太原的两个亲信,李渊的副手王威和高君雅也作出了李渊将反的判断,设计以太原天旱,需到晋祠祈雨为名,准备借机诱捕李渊。
At the same time, Emperor Yang of Sui placed two henchmen into the Taiyuan troops to monitor Li Yuan, one named Wang Wei and the other named Gao Junya.Both judged that Li Yuan would rebel and designed a trap for him: In the name of the Taiyuan drought they would need Li Yuan to pray for rain in the Jin Temple.

但他们的计划被李渊心腹、晋阳乡长刘世龙察觉,于是,李渊擒杀二人于晋阳宫。
But Liu Shilong, an officer of Jinyang and close friend of Li Yuan, noticed their plan.Li Yuan captured and killed the two lackeys at J inyang palace.

李渊最终还是来到了晋祠,但他不是来求雨的,而是为起兵祈祷。
Li Yuan eventually did go to the temple, but prayed not for rain, but for war and rebellion.

在他看来,自己起兵无异于当年武王伐纣,而唐叔虞正是武王之子,求他来保佑自然是寓义深刻。
In his opinion, he was like King Wu who had crusaded against King Zhou.The statue of Tang Shuyu was the son of King Wu, so Li Yuan prayed for him to bless his rebellion.

李渊、李世民审时度势,汲取“得道者多助,失道者寡助”的教训,以“仁义”感召天下,从众者如风随影,所到之处,百姓箪食壶浆,夹道欢迎,而敌人望风而逃。
Li Yuan and his son Li Shimin, considered the situation thoroughly, learning from the lesson “Justice gets help,while injustice loses support”.Li Yuan inspired people with righteousness; so many followed and supported him.Wherever he went,civilians would offer him and his troops food and water,giving them a warm welcome; while his enemies fled as quickly as possible when they saw his troops approaching.

这支“仁义之师”可以说所向披靡。
Li Yuan's army of justice could be said to be ever victorious.

公元617年7月,李渊在晋阳誓师起兵,仅仅126天之后便攻占了长安。
In July AD 617 Li Yuan had a rebellion ceremony at Jinyang, and it took him just 126 days to conquer the capital city of Chang’an.

第=年五月,李渊在长安称帝。
In May the following year,Li Yuan proclaimed himself emperor.

为了纪念晋人的祖先唐叔虞,取国号为“唐”。
To commemorate the Jin ancestor Tang Shuyu, he named the country “Tang”.

而令晋人(山西人)最值得骄傲自豪的是,这群“盛则后服,乱则先叛”的晋人,不因循守旧,不故步自封,以开放的心怀容纳百川,以前所未有的创新精神开创了中国历史上最昌盛的朝代——唐朝。
The proudest part of the Jin (Shanxi) people was their spirit of “ prosperity later,chaos first”.Their open minds could accommodate a hundred rivers; they never followed the beaten track, were never content, but hitherto created the most prosperous dynasty in the history of China.

大唐帝国三百年成为世界上最强盛的国家,经济总量占世界第一,以至于许多国家都派谴唐使,前来学习。
The Tang Empire controlled the country for three hundred years, and it became the world's most powerful nation, with the largest economic gross.So many countries sent delegations to Tang to study its success.

正因为晋人创造了中国历史上最辉煌一页,所以至今海外华人都以“唐人”为民族的标识。
Because the Tang people created the most brilliant page in the history of China, even nowadays, overseas Chinese consider Tang their national identity.

我认为,山西人的风采中首当其冲的是胸怀远大,容纳百川。
Firstly, I think Shanxi people have broad hearts with the capacity of many oceans.

仅以晋祠的建筑为例,本来这里是独祭晋主的地方,可是后来,却允许其他建筑冲淡它的地位。
For example, the Jin Temple was originally the only place for worshipping the Jin ancestors, but later some other buildings diluted its position.

祠区内中轴线上的建筑,由东向西,依次是水镜台、会仙桥、金人台、 对越坊、钟鼓二楼、献殿、鱼沼飞梁和圣母殿。
In the temple region were the Water-mirror Pavilion, Meeting God Bridge, Gold Figure Pavilion, Pair Music Hall, Bell and Drum Halls, Sacrifice Hall, Fish Pool, Flying Girder Pavilion, and the Temple of Notre Dame.

这组建筑和它北面的唐叔虞祠、 昊天神祠和文昌宫,南面的水母楼、难老泉亭及舍利生生塔等,组成了一个综合建筑群。
To the north of these buildings were Tang Shuyu Shrine, Infiniteness Deity Slirine and Culture Lush Palace.In the south there was the Jellyfish Building, the Never-aging Spring and the Relic Tower.All of them composed one comprehensive group.

东西一条主线上的建筑,配合上南、北两组建筑,原本是不同时期建起来的,集中在一起,却好像都服从于一个精巧的总体设计,并不是杂乱无章地生拼硬凑的,显得布局紧凑,既像庙观的院落,又像皇室的宫苑,反映了山西人创造的匠心,更重要的是反映了山西人博大的胸怀,不排外,重发展,与时俱进。
All of them fit a master template, although all the buildings were built in different periods.All of them seem to obey an elaborate compact design, both the temples and the courtyards look royal, reflecting the Shanxi people's sophistication.In addition it is a reflection of the Shanxi people's broadmindedness, not exclusiveness, but always advancing with the times.

其次,山西人耿直刚烈,“盛则后服,乱则先叛”是宋朝皇帝对山西人的评价。
Secondly, I think Shanxi people have great integrity.“Prosperity later,chaos first” were the Song Emperor’s comments and evaluation about the Shanxi people.

为了安抚山西人,宋朝皇帝没少对山西采取“怀柔”政策。
In order to appease them, the emperor made a lot of special policies.

北宋第二个皇帝太宗赵光义于太平年间(公元976—983年)在晋祠大兴土木,修缮晋祠。
In the Taiping Era (AD 976-983), the second emperor of the Northern Song Dynasty, Taizong (Zhao Guangyi), was busy putting up installations in order to repair the Jin Temple.

宋仁宗赵祯于天圣年间(公元1023—1032年)追封唐叔虞为汾东王,并为唐叔虞之母邑姜修建了规模宏大的圣母殿,取代了叔虞主祭神的位置。
Taizong was followed by Emperor Renzong (Zhao Zhen), who, in the Tainsheng Era (1023-1032) made Tang Shuyu the Eastern King.A large-scale house was built for Tang Shuyu’s mother,replacing the center of the Shuyu Temple.

可见宋皇帝是多么惧怕山西人耿直刚烈、桀骜不驯的性格。
lt is obvious that the Song Emperors were afraid of the Shanxi people’s strength, integrity,and wild intractable personalities.

只有政策得人心让他们心服口服, 他们才不闹事。
Only good policies would convince them not to make trouble.

只要有一点不公平,山西人便要“叫真章”。
While the smallest fragment of unfairness still existed, the people of Shanxi would continue to “cry for true governance”,

再其次,山西人重礼仪、讲忠诚,“滴水之恩当涌泉相报”。
Thirdly, I think the people of Shanxi pay great attention to etiquette, loyalty, and “rewarding grace with spring”.

晋祠的建筑体现了山西人的这些品格,凡是历史上为山西作过巨大贡献的人,在晋祠都有位置。
The buildings reflect Shanxi people’s characters too, as whoever made enormous contributions to their society would be given a position in the Jin Temple.

如七贤祠位于晋祠文昌宫内,供奉着晋祠乡绅学子崇拜的七位历史人物。
So there is a temple named Seven Sages located inside the lush Cultural Palace, dedicated to the worship of seven historical figures.

雍正进士,曾为官台湾的晋祠人杨二酉在晋水七贤祠碑记中说:“七贤者,虽生不同时,居不同地,而大节鸿文,丰功伟烈,赫然在耳目之前,足为晋水光也。”
The official of Taiwan in the Qing Dynasty, Yang Eryou,wrote on a tablet: “Seven Sages,although not from the same time, and from different walks of life, made great achievements in culture, valiantly recorded, they impress our ears and eyes and win praise for the Jin Era.”

再其次,山西人精明,算计精准,在晋祠的建筑中,你可以感受到其精巧, 巧夺天工。
Fourthly, I think that Shanxi people are astute, precise, and good at calculation.With their architecture, you can sense the delicate construction wherein art conquers nature.

如圣母殿采用了“减柱法”营造,殿内外共减16根柱子,以廊柱和檐柱承托殿顶屋架,因此“殿前廊和殿内十分宽敞”。
The house built for the mother of Tang Shuyu, which adopted the \"column method” in its construction is an example. With a total of sixteen pillars,and with the columns and eaves supporting roof truss, make you believe the house and gallery are very spacious.

“减柱法的熟练运用,说明山西人在建筑上已经进一步掌握了力学原理;斗拱和柱高的比例适当,避免了建筑中的用料浪费,在建筑样式上也更富于艺术性”。
The application of the “minus column method” show that Shanxi people had mastered the principles of mechanics. Brackets and a high percentage of columns save on building materials used in construction and make the building more artistic.

山西人是最会运用“优选法” 的,“多快好省”是山西人的做事准则。既科学严谨,又节省。
Shanxi people are good at optimization, so much so that optimization becomes criterion for being a Shanxi person, scientifically rigorous and thrifty.

所以,山西人干事精明,尤其会做买卖,晋商走遍天下,名扬海外。
Shanxi people are well known for their shrewdness, especially in business. Jin merchants are now are aIl over the world, so this fame is well known.

再再其次,山西人会因地制宜,大胆创新,顺势而行。
The people of Shanxi will shape measures to local conditions.

如晋祠的鱼沼飞梁就是因地制宜大胆创新的典范。
For example the Fish Pool and Flying Girder Pavilion Suit is bold and inventive.

全沼为一方形水池,是晋水的第二泉源。
The marsh is a square pool, the fountain the second source of water for the Jin River.

在这样一处洼地中,似乎不适宜再兴建其他建筑了,而山西人偏偏因地制宜,大胆创新,顺势建了一座比桥还复杂还宏伟的建筑——飞梁。
In lower parts it seems unsuitable for construction, but adapting to local conditions, the Shanxi people built a ratio bridge, a magnificently complex pavilion.

池中立34根小八角形石柱,柱顶架斗拱和梁木承托着十字形桥面。
In the pool there are thirty-four octagonal shaped pillars, the columns and beam frame brackets supporting the cross-shaped deck.

整个造型犹如展翅欲飞的大鸟,故称飞梁。
The whole design looks like a huge bird fiying with two big wings.

所以,山西人的因地制宜大胆创新精神从古到今,仍在发扬光大。
And the people of Shanxi still carry forward this ability to adjust to today.

此外,山西人敢闯荡,从洪洞县最早开始的人口大迁徙,促进了其他地区的经济发展。
In addition, Shanxi people dare to go on adventures.From Hongdong County they began the earliest great migration in China, promoting China's economic development.

各省人口的祖先,大都可以追溯到山西,是从山西走出来的。
The ancestors of much of the population of most provinces can be traced to Shanxi.

所以, 无论走到哪里,都没有人敢小看山西人。
No matter where you go you will not dare to look down on the people, they are from Shanxi.

游了晋祠,在赞叹晋祠的宏伟壮丽之余,我更敬佩山西人了,更爱山西人了。
When visiting the Jin Temple, besides admiring the temple’s magnificence,in fact I admire the people of Shanxi more. I love them very much.

朋友,如果你有机会到山西来,一定要到晋祠感受一下,我相信你一定会和我一样爱上山西和山西人的。
Dear Friends, if you have a chance to visit Shanxi, you had better visit the Jin Temple. I am sure that you will love Shanxi and Shanxi people as I do.
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